Guest Adventures Archives » Adventures of Empty Nesters https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/category/guest-adventures/ Inspiring and educating travelers to explore what excites them and #findadventure wherever they go. Fri, 28 Feb 2020 21:05:45 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-AOEN_Site-Icon-32x32.png Guest Adventures Archives » Adventures of Empty Nesters https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/category/guest-adventures/ 32 32 Portugal :: A Magical Adventure on the Island of Madeira https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/portugal-a-magical-adventure-on-the-island-of-madeira/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/portugal-a-magical-adventure-on-the-island-of-madeira/#respond Mon, 25 Mar 2019 12:33:24 +0000

    Please welcome back Angela, my long time friend, world traveler and frequent contributor to the blog. After reading her description of the magical island of Madeira, I am ready to make my reservations and I know you will be too. The Magical Island of Madeira Island hopping—the perfect way to round out an ...

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Madeira

The Hotel Belmond Reid’s inviting sea platform that crawls down to the Atlantic. Stunning!

 

Please welcome back Angela, my long time friend, world traveler and frequent contributor to the blog. After reading her description of the magical island of Madeira, I am ready to make my reservations and I know you will be too.

The Magical Island of Madeira

Island hopping—the perfect way to round out an amazing trip through the mainland of Portugal. The Azores or Madeira? The Azores, often described as Eden, is a nine-island archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic known for stunning landscapes, fishing villages, green pastures and somewhat rustic surroundings. Madeira Island is the largest of the Madeira archipelago and closer to the African continent than Europe.  It’s a volcanic island with a perimeter of spectacular ocean cliffs and few beaches. It’s small; 35 by 13 miles and includes a vibrant capital city, Funchal. I’m certain the Azores are amazing, but we chose Madeira. Since our visit, it was named one of “The Fifty Best Places to Travel in 2019” by Travel + Leisure. We made a wonderful choice!

Madeira
The city of Funchal, Madeira’s capital, is a mix of Portuguese bustle and charm.

 

Madeira
A view of Funchal and Madeira’s coastline where the big boats dock & visitors explore the island.

Belmond Reid’s Palace

We spent five nights at the iconic Belmond Reid’s Palace in a suite overlooking the Atlantic.  It’s a historic property that could use some updates in some of its spaces (they are undertaking a renovation in 2019), but the charm, hospitality and extraordinary views live on. There are three swimming pools—two of them salt water—that look out at the Atlantic. We found ourselves devoted to our chaise lounges one particularly lazy pool day in the middle of our spring stay. The property also includes a multi-level sea platform where one can sunbathe on the edge of the Atlantic and jump in for a dip. It was an extraordinary place to take in the sea, sun and shoreline—like nothing we’d ever experienced.

Madeira
One of three stunning pools at the Belmond Reid’s Palace.

 

Madeira
The magnificent cliffs that make up much of the Madeira coastline.

 

Madeira does not appear to be a big destination for Americans. There were plenty of international travelers, however, most are from Europe. One evening, after returning from dinner in town, we met a lovely British mother-daughter pair. The four of us had great fun listening to live music, getting to know one another and watching an enthusiastic and tipsy Russian couple as they strutted their stuff on the dance floor into the wee hours. The property has two excellent restaurants: William, a Michelin-star restaurant with an amazing view and a delicious tasting menu to match, was our favorite. After our incredible dining extravaganza and the generous wine parings from our lovely server, we (barely) managed to meander back to our near-rooftop room. We also enjoyed the adjacent Ristorante Villa Cipriani where we dined on delicious Italian food and enjoyed their warm hospitality.

Madeira
Our evening libation on the hotel balcony.
Madeira
My husband Jon enjoying his cocktail.
Madeira
One of the many exquisite culinary experiences!

The Capital of Funchal

The capital of Madeira is Funchal, a bustling hillside town. We explored the city on foot a number of times throughout our stay, stopping in for lunch one day at an idyllic outdoor space with red-checkered tablecloths and a view of the sea. We meandered through the cobblestone streets and mosaic sidewalks and stumbled upon the most interesting and beautifully curated vintage store. Not usually a vintage shopper, I couldn’t resist a perfect-fitting, circa 1970’s French blouse. On another afternoon we found a wonderful place on Rua da Carrereira, called O.Giro, for coffees and the biggest, most delicious churro ever. We sat outside, taking in the people-watching on that picture-perfect day.

Madeira
My vintage blouse. So fun!
Madeira
Exploring Funchal on a glorious afternoon.
Madeira
The exquisite tessera stonework embedded in the Portuguese walk areas of Funchal.
Madeira
The most delicious and decadent churro “on steroids” with a pick-me-up espresso.

 

The coastline along Funchal is a gorgeous treat and we enjoyed the extraordinary scenery as we explored the landscape.  As always, we found the city’s public market. It was relatively small but there were some of the most beautifully displayed produce vendors and a fish market that included a Madeira fish specialty, the prehistoric-looking espada. I tested my fear-of-heights with a 15-minute ride on the Funchal Cable Car, a gondola lift that rises 1,800 feet above Funchal to the smaller village of Monte. High on the hillside, we discovered the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, an extraordinary and surprising delight. Unbeknownst to us at the time, Conde Nast Traveler had proclaimed it one of the top 25 botanical gardens in the world. It definitely stood up to the many amazing gardens we’ve visited.

Madeira
Albeit a small public market, this was one of the most beautifully curated fruit displays I’ve seen. Gorgeous!
Madeira
Madeira’s own fish specialty, espada. Yes, they look like something out of a horror film.
Madeira
Tackling my fear of heights as we made our way from the seaside up the mountain to Monte.
Madeira
Just one of many stunning scenes hidden in the beautiful Monte Palace Tropical Garden.

 

That same afternoon we made our way further up the incline of Monte to the spot where the wicker toboggan run begins. This was a highlight! These asphalt road sleds, years ago, were used to transport produce down to Funchal but the rides evolved into a popular tourist attraction. Two drivers, wearing thick-soled shoes that serve as brakes, guide the open wicker toboggan, with the riders inside, down an asphalt road full of twists, bumps and just enough acceleration along the way—a kind of Portuguese Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride. It was great fun!

Madeira
In this photo we are looking down at these tourists in anticipation of our toboggan run.
Madeira
Here we go!

And a video – So fun!

 

Another day we arranged for a guided hike along one of Madeira’s famous levadas, the mountain irrigation canals, with narrow walkways paralleling them, that were originally built by the Portuguese beginning in the 16th century. We chose the Levada do Fudado, a nine-mile journey that required a van ride to the center of the island, high above our digs at sea level, to begin the trek that ended near the small town of Portela. The adventure lasted about 4 hours. It was mostly wet and cool up in the mountains but a spirited multi-lingual guide, the dense laurel forest and the stunning views made it worth every chilly raindrop.

Madeira
Our reward as we neared the end of our 9-mile hike: a view of Madeira’s beautiful Portela.

 

We packed a lot into our five days and although we never went Madeira wine-tasting, we indulged in a delicious bottle gifted to us by our hotel. Madeira—with its stunning views of the Atlantic, delicious food, vibrant capital city, lush mountain interior, international visitors, and welcoming residents—was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the final days of our magical adventure in Portugal, a nation that captured my heart.

Madeira
The absolutely amazing view from our suite. We wanted to stay forever.

 

Have you been to Madeira? Are you adding it to your travel bucket list?

More posts about Portugal :

Plan your next adventure! A Trip to Portugal Should Be On Your Travel Radar

A Dreamy Vacation in the Portuguese Countryside

 


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Want to Learn French From Dualingo ? – If can I do it, anyone can! https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/want-to-learn-french-from-dualingo-if-can-i-do-it-anyone-can/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/want-to-learn-french-from-dualingo-if-can-i-do-it-anyone-can/#comments Thu, 29 Nov 2018 20:41:25 +0000

  Welcome Back Laura! This Guest Adventurer writes the fun blog called CoastofIllinois.com. She is a land-locked beach bum who works days as a nurse and shares her land-locked life with her husband who recently retired from a career in law enforcement; just scratching the surface of their sit-com similarities. They have two grown children ...

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Welcome Back Laura! This Guest Adventurer writes the fun blog called CoastofIllinois.com. She is a land-locked beach bum who works days as a nurse and shares her land-locked life with her husband who recently retired from a career in law enforcement; just scratching the surface of their sit-com similarities. They have two grown children who still insist on Sunday dinner and a cat who has no interest in bettering himself, unless he can learn how to open his tiny food cans. A fixer-upper sailboat takes up a good portion of time these days, as does preparing for more travel adventures inspired by good food, Hemingway stories and Jimmy Buffet music.

Want to Learn French From Dualingo – I did it!

Salut!
Je suis Laura.
Je suis 57 et j’apprende le francais.
Okay.
I admit it. I cheated on the last half of that sentence and had to check everything with Google translate. But the feelings are solid.
I am 57 and I am learning French.
The first question I tend to get, when I admit this out loud is:
Why?
The most sensible answer is that my husband and I plan to do some pretty extensive travel in the upcoming years. We have traveled a small amount and when we have been in countries where English is not the first language we tried our best to learn at least some polite phrases: Hello, Good-by, Thank-you, Those aren’t my children…
We didn’t want to be those ‘ugly Americans’ who give the rest of us a bad name.
A more personal reason is the fact that, while I am a good one half German descent, I am a solid – one quarter, last name Jolie, drinks coffee from the saucer and loves bread, straight from Paris to the coal mines of the Midwest, French.
According to my husband, my mocking dismay of things with the typical French movie concierge ‘pftttttttt’ is genetically rooted.
The second question is sort of a quizzical, humoring, aren’t you a little old for this, HOW?
My answer to this is a little more convoluted.
The easy answer is: Duolingo. Which I will get to in a bit.

The how of how I reached that easy answer is the one which will take a moment.

I always wanted to learn another language. I am a voracious reader and even as a youngster, found it very annoying to be reading a wonderful book only to have the fantasy broken by the main character speaking a phrase, or worse, a sentence in a foreign language – usually French, as the language seems to lend itself to quoting.
N’es pas?
Everyone I knew who had been to high school learned either German or French. And while German should have been my biggest interest, growing up with all those Germanic genetics, my exposure to the language was limited to the names of Grandpa’s sisters and the Lord’s Prayer at the family reunion.
My grandparents rarely spoke the language unless it was related to food – schnitzbrod, springerele -and did not teach it to their children. I am sure this was a result of the desire to acclimate to a new way of life and distance those children from what had been less than desirable politics in the homeland.
And then there is the fact that French is just so romantic.
It is pretty to listen to.
German is not so melodic on the ear. It is more of the Heavy Metal Band of languages.
Especially compared to the beautiful lilting, quality of French.
(This is most likely due to the fact that the French never seem to pronounce the hard consonant sound which might end a word, favoring the flowing vowel sound running into the next word. Complementing the musical quality and adding an extra layer of frustration to 57 year old ears trying to discern ‘fille’ from ‘filles’.)
I was extremely disappointed to get to high school and find that the only language our school offered was Spanish.
But, it was Spanish taught by a tiny little old lady who went by Senorita Skelly and was so old that we were all quite certain that the fiancé she lost had most certainly been a Spaniard and ‘the war’ in which he had died had been the Spanish revolution. Possibly the Spanish Inquisition…
I can’t dismiss this education however.
Seniorita taught me enough in two years to give me the confidence to surprise an unsuspecting shopkeeper in Cabo and get me into trouble with a Spanish speaking patient.
I have taken to tempering my ‘professional’ Spanish with the opening phrase ‘Yo hablo espanol un pequeño. Muy pequeño!’`
(It should be noted that at this point in proofing this post, my husband asked if I really meant to use incorrect Spanish in the above paragraph. To which I responded….pfffffffttttt…..)
My Midwestern hospital based nursing school required no foreign language so the years between high school and today lacked the obvious answer to language education.
As our children grew up, my husband suggested I take a class at the junior college but I ineveitably would make the decision mid-cycle and always miss French 101.
I gave an attempt at free on-line classes through Open Culture, a great service offering an extensive variety of independent learning options. I enjoyed the classes until we hit the alphabet lesson. A was Ewas E. In fact, nearly everything sounded like a variation of E to me.
It didn’t help that I only practiced about once a week.

But, this was before I had a smart phone and learned about Duolingo.

(It should be noted here that I have NO affiliation nor am I getting paid by Duolingo. I am just a huge fan.)
Duolingo is an on-line language service offering 81 language courses in 37 languages including Klingon!
It offers a free or a paid version.
Naturally, the free version requires a small amount of advertising. But the interruption of ads is minimal, save for a brief readable ad between lessons and less than 30 second video ads to earn ‘gems’ when you choose.
I opted to try the free version, hesitant to actually spend any money on what promised to be another failed attempt to broaden my horizen. Five months in, I am still using the free version.
My first lesson – Basics 1 – taught the very simple ‘I am a woman/ Je suis une femme. You are a man/Tu es un homme.’ About five phrases in, the Duolingo Owl – a darling, ever supportive green cartoon popped in to say “great job!” The positive reinforcement worked and I managed to get through that first lesson losing only three of my ‘health’ points but winning 59 gems!

A great way to learn French from Dualingo – Games!

Did I mention these lessons are set up on the game format?

You have six health points in which to learn your day’s lesson with the option of earning health with practice or buying health with ‘gems’.
Each point earned with practice is rewarded by a ‘great job!’ by the Owl and a trumpet fanfare.
Those ‘gems’ you earn can also be used to place a bet with yourself that you will complete 7 days’ lessons is a row – thus earning more gems which can in turn be used to bet again. They can also be used to purchase bonus lessons in flirting and idioms.
(Let me warn you now. Don’t buy that flirting lesson on your second day, even if you have enough gems. While the phrases are classic – ‘do you want to have a drink?’ ‘do you come here often?’ – they are extremely complicated for day two and it will drop your gem accumulation to a dangerous level when comparing with your gem hoarding husband.)
Lessons take about 10 minutes and are a combination of translating from written French to English/English to French, spoken French to English/English to French, word matching and repeating phrases aloud. Initially the lessons were so repetitive that I began to think the app was broken. But as the phrases began to stick in my head I understood that they were actually teaching me the language as a small child would learn. Hearing and repeating very simple things first before branching out to full sentences and using inference to figure out words not yet learned.
The app makes it possible to practice anywhere. Which I have done – in the car, on the train, on the deck and one weekend, on our boat! If you don’t want everyone on the morning commute to critique your pronunciation you can mute the speak back option for an hour at a time. Or if you forget your headphones you can make the entire lunch room Répète après moi s’il te plaít.
Duolingo does not teach the typical phrases first – my name is; where is the bathroom; what time is it…
As I pointed out before, they teach as a child would learn. I learned some basics first, then some greeting phrases, followed by plurals of those basics before ever learning colors, foods, or types of clothing. I have yet to learn the actual alphabet or where the bathroom is. I can, however order vin. And fromage avec du pain.

I can’t count to ten. But when there is vin, who really wants to count?

I have found that I will randomly translate a thought from English to French in my head. Which completely cracks me up and causes me to confuse everyone on Facebook with my cryptic French posts about the weather and petits chiens et chats.
This is not to say that there aren’t some problems. The biggest for me is a lack of understanding of the grammatical rules. Duolingo offers no explanation of why chiens and chiennes is different. (the answer is male vs female – for us slow learners)
And as best as I can figure it, if there are multiple things then you slap an ‘s’ on the end of EVERY SINGLE WORD in the sentence – He has red shirts becomes Il a des chemises rouges. Where not only is shirt -chemise- plural -chemises- but so is the act of being red – rouge/rouges.
Its no wonder babies cry for absolutely no reason when they have yet to master speech.
It is only through repetition and some truly painful brain usage that these patterns begin to sink in.

My other big problem is more of a personal one.

They say it is so much easier for young children to learn a language. I believe this is because youngsters have much better hearing. There are days when the subtlety is completely lost in my half century old ear canals and goes back to the one lesson I learned from Open Culture.
Most French is pronounced with an ending of the final vowel sound sliding into the next word rather than differentiating with an ending consonant sound.
Thus explaining why a single woman eating a pizza – La femme mange une pizza.- Sounds exactly like, although clearly spelled differently from, many women eating a pizza – Les femmes mangent une pizza.
The best I can tell, you take a lot of information from context and just how many chairs are filled at the table.
It helps tremendously to get a notebook and keep lesson notes.
It also helps that I have an addiction to notebooks, finding a brand new one just for my French lessons, complete with multicolored sticky tabs and a new ink pen.
I have not missed a day since I started lessons, although the app feels that I blew my streak the day I did a lesson before we went to the lake. Being afraid the internet would be less than helpful I practiced early. However, the app didn’t count the lesson, I think now its possible I didn’t actually pass it, but anyway… I blew my streak. Which the app keeps handy count of, giving you an encouraging, daily total. Then when you blow your streak, that green owl offers you a handy way to ‘buy it back’ for REAL dollars.
Sorry Owl. I may spend my fake gems to bet on myself or learn pick up lines for when I find myself single in a Parisian bar but I will not give you real dollars to keep tabs on how consistently I do lessons.
Yet it is a little painful to have my husband point out that HE has not only more gems than me (he is a tightwad when it comes to fake gems) but also a longer streak. Never mind that he started two months after me or that he is learning Spanish, a language which he has taken actual college classes as well as a brief Spanish for Law enforcement course.
I retained enough from Senorita Skelly to know when he is faking it.
And then I just look over my champagne flute, eat my baguette, roll my eyes and reply ‘pffffttttttt!’

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Where to travel at the holidays :: Our readers share their favorites! https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/where-to-travel-at-the-holidays-our-readers-share-their-favorites/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/where-to-travel-at-the-holidays-our-readers-share-their-favorites/#comments Mon, 26 Nov 2018 13:01:35 +0000

  Where to travel at the holidays! No two people seem to have the same destination in mind. How wonderful is that? These friends of mine have offered where they have visited at this time year that tickles them and provides that special something! Have you been to any of these destinations? I have only ...

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Where to travel at the holidays!

No two people seem to have the same destination in mind. How wonderful is that? These friends of mine have offered where they have visited at this time year that tickles them and provides that special something! Have you been to any of these destinations? I have only been to a few of them.

Melody – Wherever I May Roam

travel at the holidays

Caribbean Cruise

My family has traveled on Caribbean cruises for 9 years. We don’t go every year, but it certainly is a great way to enjoy a stress-free holiday with plenty of sunshine, fun, and memories. We traveled with the whole family (kids, spouses, in-laws, parents) to various islands and enjoyed quality family time during meals and while in ports. We each brought a small gift for the kids and exchanged names so that the adults had one present to open to keep it “holiday-like”. Santa never missed a cruise ship Christmas; he always found us!

Janet – Go Learn Things

travel at the holidays
Holiday view of Faneuil Hall Marketplace from the Custom House Tower. Boston, MA

Boston, Massachusetts Thanksgiving weekend

We love to beat the crowds on Black Friday and board a plane instead. It is usually still reasonable weather just about anywhere you go and the Holiday decorations are spectacular. The week after Thanksgiving that we spent in Boston was an absolutely enchanting trip.

Leigh – Campfires and Concierges

travel at the holidays

Hawaii

My family has spent Christmas in many places, from Aspen to Ecuador. My favorite has to be Hawaii, where they really get into the Christmas spirit. The hotels go all out with Christmas decorations and every time you hear Bing Crosby sing Mele Kalikimaka, you’ll have a smile on your face!

Pam

travel at the holidays

Hearst Castle, California

A favorite of ours is Hearst Castle in California, near San Luis Obispo. It can be very crowded before Christmas, but after Christmas for a couple of weeks it is still decorated for Christmas and is spectacular. We usually rent a house for a few days in Cambria, and go to the great restaurants in the area, and get a reservation for the Hearst Castle tour. They do an especially nice job for folks who can’t walk long distances, and accommodate them with delivering them to doors without steps, etc.

Steve and Ann – Postcard Jar

In 2016, Steve and Ann Teget of the PostcardJar.com spent Christmas at sea while enjoying a holiday cruise with family.

Celebrate at Sea

If you’re wanting to do something different for the holidays, celebrating at sea is a great option. We celebrated Christmas on a cruise in the middle of the Caribbean Sea a few years ago and had a fantastic time. We sang Christmas carols with other passengers, watched fake snow fall from the balconies, and enjoyed an exquisite turkey dinner. Best of all, we didn’t have to do the dishes! Somehow, we managed to pack nine Christmas gifts and stocking stuffers in our bag (read more about that HERE) and enjoyed the relaxing time with family.

Debbee – DebbeesBuzz

Quebec City, Canada

Instead of presents, my husband and I decided to give each other the experience of four days in très French Quebec City. It was magical, romantic and over-the-top Christmas! Like being inside a holiday snow globe. Not only is Quebec City a restaurant paradise, there’s riding a thrilling toboggan run, ice skating outdoors to French holiday music, walking the streets in and outside the old walled city, and visiting two Christmas markets.

Irene – More Time to Travel

Cancun, Mexico

Several years ago, we flew to Cancun, Mexico on Christmas Day. We are generally reluctant to travel during the holidays but not only was our airport experience blissful but we also lucked out with wonderful weather. We stayed at a beautiful all-inclusive (and hassle-free) resort, Secrets The Vine Cancun, and it was exciting to see the staff and the property all decked out for the season!

Suzy – Empty Nest Blessed

Miami, Florida

My husband and I get away to Miami every year in December for his company’s holiday party! While you wouldn’t think of it as very Christmasy, we’ve grown to really love it as a holiday destination. Not only is it a wonderful respite from the cold weather in Dallas, but it’s also a time for us to reconnect during the holidays.

Sara- Travel with Sara

Orange Beach, Alabama

Sara enjoys the Christmas season along the Alabama Coastline. The Wharf in Orange Beach, Alabama is home to a Coastal Christmas featuring Santa and Christmas music to celebrate the season. The 32 miles of pristine beaches and Christmas lighted boat parade are other popular events in the area over the Christmas season.

Tam – Travels with Tam

Home in Dallas, Texas

The best Thanksgiving travel my family ever had was 2013, when my husband traveled home from a double lung transplant at UT Southwestern in Dallas! He walked alone for the first time on Thanksgiving Day. Our family still gives thanks to the wonderful staff who saved his life!

Suzanne – Adventures of Empty Nesters

travel at the holidays

If we can swing it, we love to get to New York City at Christmas. The city is alive with travelers, colorful lights, the most beautiful Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree, fantastic shopping and so much more! Last year we were able to get tickets  to the fabulous Rockettes Christmas Show for the very first time. It was quite the show! We plan to head back to NYC next week to experience it all again.

 

Whether you travel to a special destination or just stay home, I hope your holiday season is merry and bright!

 

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travel at the holidays

 


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Visit Iceland for an Incredible 10-Day Adventure, Part Two https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/visit-iceland-for-an-incredible-10-day-adventure-part-2/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/visit-iceland-for-an-incredible-10-day-adventure-part-2/#comments Sun, 18 Nov 2018 21:25:51 +0000

  Welcome to Part Two from our newest Guest Adventurer! Debbee is a lifestyle blogger and Etsy shop owner who uses themes when decorating, entertaining and crafting. During the past year Debbee and her husband traveled throughout Spain, spent a magical holiday season in Quebec City, went on a 10-day adventure around Iceland, and just returned from two ...

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Come learn about glaciers and icebergs

 

Welcome to Part Two from our newest Guest Adventurer! Debbee is a lifestyle blogger and Etsy shop owner who uses themes when decorating, entertaining and crafting. During the past year Debbee and her husband traveled throughout Spain, spent a magical holiday season in Quebec City, went on a 10-day adventure around Iceland, and just returned from two weeks sailing and touring Greece.

Iceland Trip Day 2: Southwest Coast

On the second day of our Icelandic adventure, we headed west on the Ring Road to explore the Southwest Coast.

As we drove, rolling green farm fields were dotted with sheep and Icelandic horses. Here, I had worried we wouldn’t see many horses — only to discover there is one to every three people in Iceland!

The Southwest Coast sits in the shadow of two glacier-topped volcanoes. It is renowned for gushing waterfalls, dramatic promontories, and black sand beaches.

Services are sparse, so we were sure to fill the car with gas, and take advantage of bathrooms whenever the opportunity presented itself. A guiding principle for pretty much anywhere in Iceland.

A Walk on the Wet Side

 visit Iceland

 

Our first stop was Seljaladsfoss, a 210-foot waterfall within view of the Ring Road. For a sense of scale, look for the tiny flecks of color in the background of the picture. Those are people walking on the trial and in the cave behind the falls.

 

visit Iceland

 

Dressed head-to-foot in rain gear, we were prepared for the slippery and sometimes steep hike behind the waterfall. It was an awesome experience!

Another half-hour down the Ring Road we reached Skogafoss. The falls there were much broader and powerful than Seljalandsfoss.

visit Iceland
Each waterfall was unique and dramatic. Both were very accessible from the road and on foot.

 

visit Iceland

 

At Skogafoss, visitors can walk amazing close to the base of the thundering falls. But, it’s slippery, and you will get wet from the wind and spray.

visit Iceland

A steep, 500-step climb provides a unique perspective from the top of the falls — a climb I skipped and waited for my guys at the base.

visit Iceland

I knew it would take me twice as long to reach the top as the marathon runners in my family. It wasn’t lunchtime yet, and there were plenty of hikes and climbs planned for the rest of the day.

Afterwards, we had a delicious and satisfying lunch of mushroom soup and freshly-made bread at the nearby Hotel Skogafoss Bistro Bar.

Dyrholaey Cliff & Natural Rock Arch

Dyrholaey promontory is a naturally formed arch in a volcanic cliff. It’s an intense, steep drive up on a narrow dirt and gravel road, with no guardrails. And, the first real test of our 4×4 SUV.

I should interject here that although I offered numerous times, the guys never let me drive the car, LOL!  Mostly, I enjoyed the incredible views through the SUV’s panoramic windows.

visit Iceland

 

The picture provides no perspective of the height or wind at Dyrholaey — so powerful it nearly knocked me over! I clung tightly to my guys, while giggling with glee.

At the summit are spectacular views of black sand beaches, lava columns, and (for only a few weeks each summer) nesting puffins. We did see thousands of puffins later on our Iceland trip, but not a one at Dyrholaey.

A small lighthouse at the summit offers overnight accommodations for the brave few.

In the Shadow of Volcanos

The Southern Coast lies in an active volcano and earthquake zone. Evidence of volcanic eruptions are everywhere. We saw more lava fields, volcanic cones, black sand beaches, and thermal activity than we saw ice on our 10-day Iceland trip.

One of those nearby volcanoes erupted in 2010, disrupting airline flights all over Europe for months. We were in the shadow of the Ejafjallajokull Volcano for several days. The entire area was on elevated alert during our visit. I confess to finding that a bit disconcerting.

visit Iceland

 

Reynisfajara is a black sand beach tucked under grassy mountains. The beach here changes frequently and can be dangerous, due to huge, unexpected surges of water.

My guys thought I was being overly dramatic, while reading from the guide book. Until, we saw a sign detailing the number of people who died there, and warning of the risks.

visit Iceland

Dramatic basalt formations (splintered columns of volcanic rock) and shallow caves are a magnet for tourists, and were the backdrop for Star Trek and other movie scenes.

The Reynisdrangar sea stacks are located in the background, just off the coast. Like much of the surrounding landscape, the stacks were formed by volcanic activity.

I stayed way back from the water on the black sand beach, with the much-photographed sea stacks beyond.

Dumb & Dumber

My very foolish eldest son, however, decided to climb the rocks at the very end of the beach, He wanted a picture of himself adjacent to the crashing surf. It was very windy, and his hat blew off and landed on the ocean side of the boulders.

visit Iceland

 

While he dangled head-first to retrieve the stupid hat, his brother and dad went to assist. I could have throttled all three of them. My whole world on a beach known for rogue waves…

I probably shouldn’t even post this photo, so as not to encourage my son. Please don’t try this on your Iceland trip!

 

visit Iceland

Here I am marching the long hike back to the car. The volcanic sand makes it difficult to walk; especially in heavy hiking boots. I’m that aqua dot. Can you see the angry steam coming off me?

This was only after my son’s first dangerous retrieval. Once we got back to the car, he realized his wallet had fallen out when reaching down for the hat! That made for a second trip to the rocks…I kid you not.

One of our family vacation traditions is to have an informal award ceremony on the last day of a trip. Eldest son won first and second place in the category, “dumbest thing done on our Iceland trip.” Actually, I think he ‘won’ third too; for being precariously close to a waterfall later during our vacation! That kid will be the death of me…

5 Mile Hike Not Taken

The guys had one more stop they wanted to make; to see the wreckage of a plane that crashed on the beach in the 1960’s (everyone survived). Oldest son works in the transportation sector and was particularly keen on seeing it. Me, not so much.

 

You see, it was a five-mile roundtrip hike to the wreckage, on black sand. At that point, I was pretty physically and emotionally worn out. I elected to stay in the warm car and take advantage of our mobile hotspot to check emails and text pictures.

Renting a mobile hotspot is essential on an Iceland trip. Along with your phone’s navigation system, it’s very effective. Renting a GPS is a complete waste-of-time and money.

End of the Day with Sun Still Shinning

Our second night was spent at the new UMI Hotel; a very posh and ultra-modern place. As was typical for most of our Iceland trip, hubby and I had one room while the boys shared another.

Here’s our room’s view on the ocean side of the hotel. As you can see, the weather had improved dramatically from the previous day.

We went out to a nearby, modestly-priced restaurant for dinner. Gamla Fjosid specializes in dishes made with locally raised beef, and is located in a rustic old cowshed.

Almost everywhere in Iceland offers free Wi-Fi, with the exception of Gamla Fjosid. I loved this sign and was happy to keep my sons’ noses out of their phones during dinner.

visit Iceland
Are you a sweet or savory person?

Say Goodnight Debbee

Afterwards, we enjoyed drinks in the hotel bar. Playing card games was something we enjoyed most evenings before heading to bed. A deck of cards should be on your packing list for an Iceland trip.

All our accommodations had blackout shades, but most nights I still elected to wear a sleeping mask.

Hope you’ve enjoyed the trip so far. Interested in seeing more of her 10-day Icelandic adventure? Check out Debbee’s blog ===> Here!

Thank you Debbee!

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Incredible Iceland 10-Day Adventure, Part One https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/incredible-iceland-10-day-adventure-part-one/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/incredible-iceland-10-day-adventure-part-one/#comments Mon, 12 Nov 2018 13:49:54 +0000

  Please Welcome our newest Guest Adventurer! Debbee is a lifestyle blogger and Etsy shop owner who uses themes when decorating, entertaining and crafting. She typically posts twice a week; focusing on holidays, tablescapes, parties, DIY projects and travel. During the past year Debbee and her husband traveled throughout Spain, spent a magical holiday season in Quebec City, ...

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My waterproof jacket, rain pants and foldable cap kept me dry, warm and comfortable.

 

Please Welcome our newest Guest Adventurer! Debbee is a lifestyle blogger and Etsy shop owner who uses themes when decorating, entertaining and crafting. She typically posts twice a week; focusing on holidays, tablescapes, parties, DIY projects and travel. During the past year Debbee and her husband traveled throughout Spain, spent a magical holiday season in Quebec City, went on a 10-day adventure around Iceland, and just returned from two weeks sailing and touring Greece.

Incredible Iceland 10-Day Adventure, Part One

I’m really excited to share our recent family vacation — an incredible 10-day adventure to the land of the midnight sun.

Earlier this year, both my husband and I celebrated big-0 birthdays. Later this fall, we will also mark a big-5 wedding anniversary.

To honor these milestones, our sons arranged a 10-day family vacation. They presented the surprise Iceland trip, transportation details, travel route and accommodations to us in the late spring. That allowed plenty of time to plan and eagerly anticipate the July journey. And believe you me, traveling over 900 miles around the entire country of Iceland takes lots of pre-planning.

incredible Iceland
Gift package of maps and books.

 

Come along on the first day of our incredible Iceland trip in the land of fire and ice.

It’s All About the Journey – Incredible Iceland

As the card said, it’s about the journey, not the destination. For me, the true gift was spending 10 entire days together as a family. I was absolutely ecstatic!

Our sons’ careers have them working very long hours and traveling a great deal. Trying to find even a long weekend to get together, was hard enough. Plus, we have four people living in three different cities.

Just a month after my Unbirthday Party, we were off on a grand Iceland trip and epic adventure to the land of fire and ice. All of a sudden, I couldn’t wait to turn the big-something!

Our route followed Iceland’s Ring Road, with several significant detours to more remote peninsulas and into the wilderness. We progressed counter-clockwise around the country, which is about the size of Maine. One night was spent in each of nine different and varied accommodations.

The Golden Circle

We were able to fly direct to Iceland via Wow Air, which began service from Pittsburgh last June. Apparently, it’s the hot (cool?) thing to do these days — especially by millennial like our sons.

The guys flew together from Newark and our flights arrived within minutes of each other. We were all delayed an hour, arriving at 5:45 AM local time. There’s only a four-hour time difference with East Coast, because with 20 hours of daylight during the summer, there’s no need for savings time!

We grabbed our luggage, changed (into fleece, winter coats and waterproof hiking boots), picked up a luxury 4×4 SUV, and hit the road for the Golden Circle.

The Golden Circle and Southwest Coast have many of Iceland’s most well-known and visited natural wonders, due to their accessibility from Reykjavik.

Our first stop was Thingvellir National Park. This is one of the few destinations I can pronounce, of all the places we visited during our Iceland trip! The dramatic gorge marks the pulling apart of the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates.

Snorkeling on the Continental Divide

We actually went snorkeling in Iceland on the morning of our arrival!  It was quite the wake me up!

incredible Iceland
My son snorkeling in the rift between the two tectonic plates.

 

After a quick breakfast grabbed at the Thingvellir visitor center and overlook, we hustled to get to our dive meeting place. I was a little dismayed that what they called a ‘place to change’, was just a large van! That seemed to be the case regardless of the dive operator.

We already knew we’d spend as much time getting into our dry suits, as time in the water. You don’t wear swimsuits, but thermal long underwear to stay warm in the glacial water. It’s a two-person job to get suited up and insure a watertight seal.

incredible Iceland
We are the four swamp creatures in the back, preparing to enter the Silfra Fissure.

 

Unique Experience

As I descended the stairs into the glacial water up to my chest, I was pleased to feel warm and dry. Then, the guide told us to put our faces into the water and start to swim. OMG — it was such a cold shock! It actually felt like the worst burn! I didn’t think I was going to be able to withstand a few minutes, let alone 40 with my face in the water.

I did have some difficulty when we entered the current. A few helpful shoves from the boys kept me on course, and not headed into the lake!

 

But, the body adjusts at the same time you are distracted by the view and swimming. It’s a one-way trip and others are continually coming in behind you. We all persevered and the worst was over within minutes.

There are no fish or corral. Bright green and yellow plants cling to the volcanic rock.

 

Most areas of the rift are narrow and deep, others quite shallow. It’s an awesome experience and I’m pretty proud of myself for doing it! After all, my husband and sons are scuba certified.

Ideally, we would have snorkeled the Silfra Fissure later on the trip. But, with a 10-day route ahead, this was the logical first stop and best use of time.

Filling Up the Tank 

Everyone was now wide awake and ready to eat! So, we headed further into the Golden Circle to the highly-rated restaurant Fridheimar, a tomato farm.

Guests eat lunch among the plants in the greenhouse.

 

My guidebook cautioned to make reservations ahead. Sure enough, the place was completely booked. Mind you, Fridheimar is what most would consider the middle of nowhere! They did offer us service at the bar, with a more limited menu.

It actually worked out great, as we found a high-top table. Hubby ordered up four delicious bowls of tomato soup. Each came with a large, freshly baked roll the size of a loaf of bread! The soup warmed us up and filled our bellies before continuing on.

In Iceland glacial water is free, and here it was garnished with tomatoes.

 

Raingear: Required Islandic Attire

Our next stop on the Golden Circle was Geysir. The geothermal field has walking trails among steaming vents, turquoise pools and mud formations. It’s where the English word ‘geyser’ comes from.

I don’t have any pictures of Geysir because it was raining pretty good then. It was also overcast and foggy on the first day of our Iceland trip. Fortunately, the weather was pretty good the rest of the vacation. But, the weather that first day did put a damper on things — most notably views.

Having seen Yellowstone, Geysir pales in comparison. It was still worth the half hour we spent at there, as it sits right on the way to our primary destination. Gullfoss was just ten minutes further down the road.

We saw hundreds of waterfalls in Iceland, but Gullfoss is in the top five.

 

Gullfoss is Iceland’s most famous waterfall, with a spectacular double cascade and dramatic drop that thunders into a rocky ravine. Part of its popularity is due to easy access along the Golden Circle route.

The trail climbs past the fall’s northern face, allowing you to get within an arm’s length.

Whether it rains or not, wet weather gear is required for an enjoyable Iceland trip. We explored numerous waterfalls and coastal overlooks where it could be very windy, went whale watching on a raft, and hiked in misty conditions. Rain gear, including waterproof hiking boots, is essential.

Icelandic Horse Farm

Our first night was spent in one of three cottages at the Akurgeroi Guesthouse horse farm, near Selfoss.

Horses just beyond our deck, grazing in wildflower-covered fields. Fog and a low ceiling hide the ocean lying beyond.

 

The Airbnb rental was my favorite accommodation in terms of charm. All the décor tied into the farm theme, including horseshoes and stirrups as hardware, and a galvanized bucket light fixture.

There was champagne in the frig, the makings for hot chocolate, and delicious Icelandic chocolate bars.

 

Lobster Dinner Family Style

Food and alcohol are extremely expensive on an Iceland trip, because almost everything is imported. Even the locally-sourced seafood and lamb is very pricey (there are three times as many sheep as people in Iceland!).

Still, we decided to splurge on our first night to eat humar (langoustine or Norway lobster), right off the boat. Fjorubordid (The Water’s Edge) is a venerable, nautical-themed lobster house. There’s no view despite its location, and reservations are recommended. It was a Friday night, and we were lucky they had a table in an auxiliary dining room.

The food was exceptional. We had the chunky lobster ‘soup’ with homemade bread. Icelanders make fabulous breads and pastries! Be sure to order the trimmings; cucumber salad, tomatoes with basil, couscous, fresh salad, and baby potatoes. All served family style. Don’t forget Icelandic craft beer to wash it down, with pitchers of glacial water.

It was everyone’s favorite meal. A great finish to Day One of our Iceland trip!

Follow along to explore the Southwest Coast with gushing waterfalls, dramatic promontories and black sand beaches in Part 2.

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Do you like to travel at the holidays? Come share your story. https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/do-you-like-to-travel-at-the-holidays-come-share-your-story/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/do-you-like-to-travel-at-the-holidays-come-share-your-story/#respond Sun, 11 Nov 2018 22:12:20 +0000

    Do you like to travel at the holidays ? About three years ago, I sent out a request for all of you to share your favorite holiday destination. This collaborative post was super fun to do and I thoroughly enjoyed reading where YOU like to go! I think it is about time we ...

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travel at the holidays
Grand Central Terminal, New York

 

Do you like to travel at the holidays ?

About three years ago, I sent out a request for all of you to share your favorite holiday destination. This collaborative post was super fun to do and I thoroughly enjoyed reading where YOU like to go!

I think it is about time we did this again!

What I am looking for:

  • The name of the city you traveled to and two or three sentences describing why you enjoyed it there.
  •  A photo of the city (with you in the photo if possible)
  • A caption for the photo
  • If you have a blog, please also include the name and URL

Don’t sweat the details, just email me the info and attach the photo and you will be included! Please send to me by 11/21/18.

Email: suzannestavert@me.com

I do like to travel at the holidays. I find it extra exciting and can absolutely feel a difference traveling in November and December vs. any other time of year.  I have a few tips that may help:

  1. Be organized. Have all of your travel documents together.
  2. Check in to your flight the day before.
  3. If you are checking bags make sure you understand how to use the kiosks that are now at most airports.
  4. Make sure you have luggage tags Check out ours here ==> AdventuresinTravel
  5. Give yourself plenty of time for check in and security lines.
  6. There are many first time fliers and travelers who rarely travel. This can frustrate the frequent traveler. Be kind.
  7. Packing: Finish packing the night before. Do not leave anything until the morning of your flight. If your flight is delayed or cancelled, you want to have complete focus to fix it.
  8. Have your electronics charged and stowed in your carry on.
  9. Do you have your ride to the airport decided? Give yourself plenty of time.
  10. Have fun! Enjoy the lights, decorations and maybe get a Pumpkin Spice Latte!


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Let’s connect over on social media here ==>  Follow us on Twitterlike us on Facebookcheck out our photos on Instagram, or pins on Pinterest

 

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Is a Visit to Mazatlán in Your Future? Empty Nesters are Flocking There! https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/is-a-visit-to-mazatlan-in-your-future-empty-nesters-are-flocking-there/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/is-a-visit-to-mazatlan-in-your-future-empty-nesters-are-flocking-there/#comments Mon, 01 Oct 2018 19:34:43 +0000

Please welcome my newest Guest Adventurer, my friend and travel journalist Stacey Wittig. Here is her quick bio:”I can’t stop exploring the world (I blame it on my father’s Viking blood) and write about my adventures – many as a solo woman traveler. Life isn’t always rosy; I lost my firecracker reasoning skill to head ...

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a visit to Mazatlán

Please welcome my newest Guest Adventurer, my friend and travel journalist Stacey Wittig. Here is her quick bio:”I can’t stop exploring the world (I blame it on my father’s Viking blood) and write about my adventures – many as a solo woman traveler. Life isn’t always rosy; I lost my firecracker reasoning skill to head injury in a horrific rollover accident that should have taken my life. Brain injury hasn’t stopped me from traveling, although sometimes it makes for amusing travel anecdotes.” Follow along at www.UnstoppableStacey.com

Empty Nesters Love Mexico

When I visited Mazatlán, Mexico, recently, I ran into quite a few empty nesters from the US and Canada. Some were visiting, while others were expats and had moved to the lovely beachside city. It got me thinking, with the amount of money being poured into the infrastructure of the already comfortable, historic town, Mazatlán might just be the place for me to spend my retirement years. I surely enjoyed vacationing in the “Pearl of the Pacific” over the last two decades and I could easily envision myself living here.

a visit to Mazatlán

I did a little research and found a Forbes article, “The Surprising Top 10 List of Best Places to Retire Abroad,” that features high praise for Mazatlán from both ‘Live and Invest Overseas’ and ‘International Living’ authorities. The insider list was surprising to me as it named four places that I have visited: Lisbon, Portugal’s Algarve Region, Valletta, Malta, and Mazatlán. Even more unexpected was that Mazatlán placed third on the list, behind the Algarve Region and Valletta.

  1. Portugal’s Algarve Region
  2. Valletta, Malta
  3. Mazatlán, Mexico
  4. Abruzzo, Italy
  5. Saint-Chinian, France
  6. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
  7. Lisbon, Portugal
  8. Budapest, Hungary
  9. San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
  10. George Town, Malaysia

 

a visit to Mazatlán

Home to more than twelve miles of golden shoreline, Mazatlán offers idyllic year-round tropical weather, first-class amenities and infrastructure, and an active lifestyle for older adults who embrace a “young at heart” mindset. Many expats embrace living like a local, enjoying the laid-back living and city life surrounding the Historic District’s Plaza Machado, which offers magnificent sidewalk cafes, up-and-coming gastronomy, local arts and crafts, and a diverse theater culture.

Forbes reported, “Known for its North American expat community, this Pacific coast beach resort has, according to Live and Invest Overseas, “a little bit of everything” — 20 miles of beaches, world-class fishing, historical attractions, delicious street food and an international airport. Climate? Tropical, with a wet season and a dry season.”

 

Mazatlán is truly a city in transformation

Earlier I mentioned a large amount of money being poured into Mazatlán. The amount is approximately 2,085,000,000 Mexican Pesos,or 111.5M US Dollars. I saw evidence of many new amenities and improvements and especially enjoyed:

  • the renovated Malecón (they’re adding new bike paths, too)
  • a restored Centro Histórico that preserves the French, Italian and German architectural roots of the fascinating and Instagrammable historic center,
  • the refreshed Ángela Peralta Theater and Cultural Center, the gathering spot for the renown opera and theatre culture;
  • the renewal of the tallest, working natural lighthouse in the world and
  • the creation of new parks and city centers for families and visitors to enjoy.

a visit to Mazatlán

A city with many talents

“Mazatlán is enjoying a renaissance, and many are returning here to savor a burgeoning culture scene rich with the arts,” said Rafael Lizárraga Favela, Undersecretary of Tourism for the State of Sinaloa. “Whether you are an empty-nest couple looking to slow your pace of life, or a prior snowbird visitor looking to make a permanent change to our incredible year-round tropical climate, you can find value and a quality of life here in our colonial city on the beach that includes luxury living, endless activities, and a booming culinary scene,” he added.

I was honored to have heard the tourism official speak at a gathering of the 23rd annual Fiesta Amigos, a unified city effort to educate and celebrate Mazatlán’s tourism partners from the U.S. and Canada. The Fiesta Amigos was held at the beautiful and modern International Convention Center, which showcased the state-of-the-art multi-use facilities that businesses, conferences and meeting organizations can utilize year-round. For more click here: http://vagabondinglulu.blogspot.com/2017/12/mazatlan-stories-are-best-souvenirs.html

a visit to Mazatlán

My research also uncovered that American Express Travel ranked Mazatlán one of the hottest worldwide destinations last fall, and Live and Invest Overseas named Mazatlán’s historic city center as the ‘Ideal Second Home.’ Maybe I’ll just have to start shopping Mazatlán real estate. https://www.liveandinvestoverseas.com/real-estate/why-mazatlans-historic-center-is-the-ideal-second-home

For more information about Mazatlán, visit http://www.GoMazatlan.com.

Is a visit to Mazatlan in your future?

Looking for more on Mexico? – Check out these posts

The Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya – Our Perfect Anniversary Getaway

The Very Best Restaurant in Cozumel: Buccanos at Night

 


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Make sure you click over to the Home Page to see what else is happening on the blog – At the top of the home page you will find The Empty Nest, Restaurants & Food, Travel, Work with Me, Press and Contact. We have lots to offer here on AdventuresofEmptyNesters.com

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A Dreamy Vacation in the Portuguese Countryside https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/a-dreamy-vacation-in-the-portuguese-countryside/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/a-dreamy-vacation-in-the-portuguese-countryside/#comments Mon, 17 Sep 2018 19:32:07 +0000

Please welcome back Angela Light, my longtime friend and traveler who spent a great deal of time and energy to write this fantastic post for all of us! Her over-the-top amazing vacation in the Portuguese countryside absolutely captivated me. The dreamy descriptions and elegant accommodations coupled with world class cuisine is my kind of vacation. ...

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in the Portuguese countryside
The spectacular countryside of Portugal.

Please welcome back Angela Light, my longtime friend and traveler who spent a great deal of time and energy to write this fantastic post for all of us! Her over-the-top amazing vacation in the Portuguese countryside absolutely captivated me. The dreamy descriptions and elegant accommodations coupled with world class cuisine is my kind of vacation. Take a minute to enjoy this post, it is incredible & I just loved her adventure!

in the Portuguese countryside
Out on a hike

 

What is on your travel wish list?

You learn a lot about yourself the more you travel: if you enjoy traveling with friends versus solely your partner; whether or not you want to incorporate big fitness into your vacations; if you can handle extreme weather; your tolerance for crowds; and how much rest and relaxation you require while traveling abroad.

When we were planning our Portuguese sojourn we knew we were those people who like plenty of R&R, so we included some significant downtime on the itinerary. We decided to go east for some quiet respite, into the Portuguese countryside, in addition to our time in Lisbon and Porto.

Each year Condé Nast Traveler publishes its Gold List, a lineup of properties all over the world that the publication considers to be their “editors’ favorite hotels.”  Of the three hotels listed in Portugal for 2018, two of them were our country destinations so our R&R expectations were justifiably high.

The perfect first stop in the Portuguese Countryside

After our time in Lisbon we spent two glorious days at Sao Lourenco do Barrocal in the Alentejo region east of the city, close to the Spanish border. To get there we drove through gently rolling hills carpeted in green and dotted with boulders, oak trees and livestock that reminded me of the Santa Ynez Valley, not far from my home in California. Known for its wheat, cork, olive oil and wine, the Alentejo is often referred to as the “bread basket” of Portugal.

 

in the Portuguese countryside
Sao Lourenco do Barrocal’s amazing grounds. A stunning combination of nature and human history.

Sao Lourenco do Barrocal

Sao Lourenco do Barrocal is a hotel property like nothing I’ve ever seen. The owners refer to it as a “farm estate retreat.” It is a working ranch and has been in the same family for over 200 years.  The estate covers nearly 2,000 acres. The grounds include a swimming pool (which wasn’t open yet when we visited), horses, bicycles, birds, cattle, vineyards, gardens and even an arena that was once used as a bullring. There are 16 Neolithic dolmens located throughout the estate (I had to look it up too). It’s pretty special.

 

in the Portuguese countryside

 

The interiors of the property—and the surrounding hardscape—are spare, streamlined and beautiful in their simplicity. We had a spacious suite with windows that looked up at the medieval fortress village of Monsaraz, just a couple of miles away. One afternoon we took the short drive up there only to stumble on the end of a regional runners’ race. The views from Monsaraz are spectacular, especially of the massive Alqueva Lake below, and the walled city, including the castle, are charming and storied. It’s a must-see.

A unique and beautiful hotel property that offers rest, relaxation and restoration like none other.

in the Portuguese countryside
The charming entrance to the property’s farm-to-table restaurant that specializes in delicious dishes from the Alentejo region, complete with organic produce grown on the estate.
in the Portuguese countryside
Exploring the medieval walled “civil parish” of Monsaraz and its castle which offer stunning views.

 

in the Portuguese countryside
These views!

The giant garden at Sao Lourenco do Barrocal is a source for their intimate restaurant. The emphasis is on local sustainability so the menu changes often. We feasted on time-honored specialties as we enjoyed the lovely rustic décor.  We started and ended each evening in the beautifully appointed lobby bar where we sipped our delicious and generously prepared cocktails in leather club chairs.

 

Thanks to our travel agent who booked us via Virtuoso properties, we had a credit for the hotel spa.  After an exhilarating hike in the rain one morning, we were off to the Susanne Kaufmann spa.  In addition to relaxing massages and facials, my husband and I had fun starting our experience in the private hydrotherapy room soaking in the cedar wood tub.

 

Our second extraordinary property – Six Senses

Fast forward four nights later, after leaving Porto, and we were headed east again but this time to the Douro Valley.  It was gray and raining when we arrived at the magnificent Six Senses.  Like Sao Lourenco, this stunning property is also so much more than a hotel. Formerly a wine estate dating back to the 15thcentury, it has been transformed into a world-class health and wellness getaway. The contemporary interiors are a lovely juxtaposition to the stately exteriors. It’s absolutely beautiful and our three-night stay was extraordinary!

The main building from the estate gardens at the absolutely gorgeous and extraordinary Six Senses Douro Valley.

 

Jon and I know wine country topography but the Douro Valley is different.  First of all, it’s been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Unlike California’s wine regions, these vineyards sit on distinctly tiered hillsides and the landscape is dotted with magnificent buildings that are the visible centers of each quinta (the Portuguese word for winery).  There are more quintas in that region than one could visit.  We didn’t go wine tasting; instead we hunkered down on this unique property.

 

 

One day we hiked from the hotel only to get lost among the grapevines of one of the nearby quintas. We finally made our way onto the main road, which eventually led us to the bank of the Douro River where we meandered back to the hotel. Along the way we met an expat couple who have been living and working in Switzerland for the last decade. They were a great source for international travel tips and references.

The adopted stray that the good folks at the Six Senses have taken in. He guided us on a lovely hike around the property our first morning.
in the Portuguese countryside
The winding Douro River making its way through the wine region.

 

One of our morning hikes included the soulful adopted hotel dog, Tilly, once a local stray, accompanying us as we explored the grounds on the estate. We also took advantage of the many available fitness classes in a state-of-the-art studio that overlooked the Douro River. Fortunately, they offered yoga and Pilates, practices Jon and I know well. In the afternoons we lounged next to the indoor pool as we occasionally ducked into one of the many saunas. The Wellness Center offers a vast array of personalized services including various experiences at their beautiful alchemy bar.

 

in the Portuguese countryside
The Alchemy Bar at the Wellness Center

 

As we explored the grounds we came upon these ruins with Portugal’s iconic tiles, “azulejos.”

During our stay we encountered very few Americans. The Six Senses at Douro Valley is primarily a destination for Europeans, which made for a more interesting experience. The staff was friendly and helpful. Our first night’s dinner was an extravaganza. We booked the Chef’s Table Experience,which was a personalized tasting menu with wine pairings at a table in the kitchen with a sous chef and server assigned exclusively to us. It was amazing! They made us feel like royalty as they fed us an absolutely delicious meal, explaining every dish as it was prepared. They even asked me what my favorite music was; upon my response, Led Zeppelin could be heard blaring throughout the kitchen. The evening ended with our enthusiastic chef taking us on a tour of every corner of the hotel’s expansive kitchen.

in the Portuguese countryside
Santo, our talented, personal sous chef who led us through our amazing chef’s table experience.

 

On our last full day, we enjoyed an amazing experience at their world-renowned spa.  We booked the Couples Journey, located in their premier spa space above the river, that included a foot cleansing complete with a Tibetan bowl ritual, and side-by-side massages and facials.  It was long, relaxing and memorable!

After the spa
in the Portuguese countryside
The stunning indoor pool that lured us to lounge around and swim in each day.

We didn’t want to leave

We could have easily stayed at the Six Senses for a couple of weeks. Every meal was delicious with an emphasis on local sourcing. They have a big, beautiful wine library, and a lively cocktail lounge where we got to know the bartenders, played parlor games and listened to live music each night. Between all the fitness, health and wellness, gastronomic delights and imbibing, it was great fun. And the setting…absolutely spectacular!

Libations with Portuguese bread and olive oil—our favorite repast at the Six Senses lounge.
in the Portuguese countryside
The gorgeous and expansive wine bar that included regular tastings and card key-activated wine dispensers for easy access.

Portugal is high on the list of many travelers

Portugal is “hot.” It’s featured on all sorts of travel lists. It’s a wonderful place; the people, food, topography, weather, accommodations, history, safety. If you have the chance to visit, allow yourself the opportunity to experience some of the regions outside the magnificent cities of Porto and Lisbon. You won’t be sorry!

Have you considered taking a vacation in the Portuguese countryside?

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One more post about Portugal – A Trip to Portugal Should Be on Your Travel Radar


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A U2 Adventure :: How I Met Bono and Got a Tattoo https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/a-u2-adventure-how-i-met-bono-and-got-a-tattoo/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/a-u2-adventure-how-i-met-bono-and-got-a-tattoo/#comments Thu, 06 Sep 2018 13:01:07 +0000

An Adventure of a lifetime Adventures come in all sorts of sizes, shapes and packages – What would it feel like to meet one of the biggest rock stars in the world and then getting his signature tattooed on your arm? Who says that life isn’t exciting after the kids move away? I heard this ...

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how I met Bono

An Adventure of a lifetime

Adventures come in all sorts of sizes, shapes and packages – What would it feel like to meet one of the biggest rock stars in the world and then getting his signature tattooed on your arm? Who says that life isn’t exciting after the kids move away?

I heard this story from a travel writer friend and it was so fascinating that I asked her to share it with you. Thanks Lori.

How I Met Bono – It’s an amazing story!

Sure, you can look back on events in your life that were pivotal…

Marriage.

The birth of your children.

Perhaps a peak moment in your career.

At this time in our lives, most of us have experienced all the highlights, moments that when we reflect on them we get an instant smile on our face.

Sure I’ve had those moments too, but there is one day that will forever leave a mark on me. That one story that I can tell over and over again and it transforms me into a 7th grade girl with all the emotions of crushing on Donny Osmond.

The first U2 concert I went to was in Madison, Wisconsin in 1992 during the Zoo TV tour. I was transformed that night by the spectacle of this multi media show. I really liked U2’s music before, but seeing Bono work the audience that night was mind-blowing. I have long had a soft spot in my heart for lead singers (hello, my name is Lori, I’m 55 years old and I totally fangirl over Bono!).

How I met Bono
Bono greeting fans in Chicago

Think what you will of Bono, but he oozes charm, has worked hard to lobby for causes he is passionate about, is devoted to his high school sweetheart and wife Ali, has four children and has an almost intimate relationship with his fans. Not only that but Bono along with U2’s founder Larry Mullen Jr., bassist and residential “cool guy” Adam Clayton and one of the best and most original guitar players in the world, Edge, make music that speaks to me.

So, I was determined to meet Bono in 2015 in Chicago during the Innocence + Experience Tour. My goal was a hug or picture with him, but if by chance he was signing autographs I had it in my head that I wanted him to sign my shoulder and I would have that signature tattooed! Now I had no tattoos and really had no desire to get one before, but I knew I absolutely would make a Bonograph a permanent fixture on my body. The best way to get this chance was to be there when they arrived at the United Center late afternoon on show day.

Sunday, June 28th 2015 turned out special in many ways.

How do you really meet a rock star?

To give you an idea what it takes to meet one of the biggest bands in the world, here are some requirements.

  • Patience– After all, you will need to wait a good part of the day.
  • Endurance– Able to brave extreme temperatures and sitting and standing in one spot for long periods of time.
  • Doing a little research– Finding out what entry the band uses at a venue and time needed to arrive to secure a rail spot.
  • A snack bag– Unless you are able to leave and have someone hold your spot for you, you need a little nourishment to get you through the day. Bonus if you bring chocolate chip cookies to share.
  • Willingness to meet people– This is optional, but I find if you put yourself out there and have conversations, it makes the day go 100 times quicker.
  • A whole lot of LUCK!!!! You are never guaranteed that any members of the band will stop! Be prepared to be disappointed.

 

With that, here is my story and a rundown of events.

how I met Bono
My daughter Megan and I waiting to meet U2

We arrived at the United Center in Chicago at about 10:30 in the morning. It was a perfect time because there were only about 15 people already at the west end entry point. Seeing this, I immediately had a good feeling about this day. We had tried to meet the band the day before, but arrived too late to get a prime spot. It was still worth it though because we got pretty up close to Larry and Bono (I was so flustered seeing Bono that I hit my daughter Megan in the face and her glasses flew off her head!).

Security let us in the gated area around noon and we took our spot along the barricades set up to contain the impending crowd. We were in prime position!!! Now the real waiting began.

Waiting around all afternoon for your favorite band to arrive proved fun in many ways. There is something incredibly special about the U2 fan community. You meet others who share your undying love for the band, which gives you an instant connection. A connection that is hard to find in your “regular life” because most fans I know have family and friends that don’t quite understand the intense obsession we have for U2.

To spend a day with people who are your U2 tribe, sharing stories, taking pictures and making connections on social media was priceless. It was great  being around people who have a common bond with you. I have met people young and old alike, from all over the world. A handful of them I have met up with on every tour since and have formed some great friendships.

By 2:00 in the afternoon, you can tell that everyone got a little restless. It’s a long day and depending upon the weather (extreme heat in my case), it can be a grind and pretty tiring to stay in one place all day. Trying to meet your favorite band is not for the faint of heart!

The strategy

We knew to watch for the extra security and upgraded activity as a sign that the band was about to arrive. This is where the patience comes in because there is a whole lot of waiting until that moment arrives.

Finally about 3:00 a big black SUV with tinted windows drove in, it didn’t stop. There was lots of speculation about who was in there. Rumor went around that it was Bono. My heart sank. Strange thing was that Brian, Bono’s bodyguard was not sitting in front, which he usually does. I refused to believe it was him!

After more time passed Edge came in, but didn’t stop.

Then another vehicle drove in at the end of the driveway. This time it stopped and out comes Brian. OMG my heart was pounding! This was it!  My time had come!!! There Bono was! I could not breathe! My new friend Andrew was trying to keep everyone calm cause you can imagine the excitement running through the crowd, not to mention the push to the barricade from those wanting to get close from behind. I would say, there must have been 200 people by this time although it was hard for me to see behind me.

Bono started right at the beginning of the line. The incredible thing was, he took his time and signed and listened to everyone who greeted him. Megan was standing behind me and the plan was she would have whoever stopped sign my U2 map of Dublin that came with a book as a gift for fan club membership renewal. Everyone was pushing and I was plastered up against that barricade. I was trying to brace myself so the barricade would not topple over. Although there was pushing, the crowd stayed relatively calm.

how I met Bono
Adam greets the fans

Meanwhile Adam Clayton (bassist)  stopped and he started greeting fans at the other end. He went through pretty fast though. When he got to me I knew he was right in front of me but I couldn’t even see him cause my face was covered with album covers and other things for him to sign. There were so many things in front of me, that he never did sign my map. I was happy Andrew, who was standing next to me, had a poster that the only signature he needed was Adam’s, So he got his wish.

The coolest thing I saw that day was him drawing and signing on a couple’s picture of their two little girls who are a product of U2’s music. They met through their mutual love of the band. They didn’t want a signature as they just wanted him to see the picture of their beautiful daughters, but he did it anyway. Very cool!!!

It really happened

After about 20 minutes of Bono inching ever closer and with my heart pounding he was right in front of me! I asked him if he would sign my shoulder. Megan was helping me hold my sleeve back. He said “yes, what would you like me to draw?” I told him I did not care, whatever he wanted (Really? You are asking me what I want you to draw? He could have sliced my arm off, I wouldn’t have cared!). He told me to hold still. OMG!!!!! I did and he drew the cool clover design with hearts I had seen him do twice before. Someone from behind me told him I was gonna have it tattooed. Everybody around me knew this was what I wanted done! My design ended up being a different variation of this clover design with his o’s being hearts!!! I was actually quite calm.

how I met Bono

People were talking to him from behind me and my mind was totally blank!! The only thing I could think of was to ask him if they would play “Original Of The Species” live again.  He replied “yes” I asked “tonight” and he said “no, not tonight”. He took his time as he drew all the while holding my arm still. He finished, gave me a smile as I thanked him and moved on.

Dreams do come true

The whole encounter probably lasted a minute, but my dream came true! After, as is typical for me, I immediately started crying! Part adrenaline rush, part insane happiness, I felt like I needed a string tied to my big toe to guide me back to earth! Later Megan told me my voice sounded so strange.  Like I was trying so hard to stay calm that it was high pitched, like she had never heard before. She did get a tiny snippet of video while he was signing my arm.

After all the excitement was over we were all standing around like show and tell and showing off all the signatures. Megan and I found our friends and they shared their Bono story too! What a day. I texted my hubby with a picture and a text saying “this just happened.” Of course the written text arrived before the pic and he was confused. When he realized what just happened he was really happy for me!

Then the best thing happened!  A couple came up to me to see my signature and said I really needed to have it done right now so it doesn’t have a chance to fade. I was in Chicago in a neighborhood I was not familiar with!! My plan was to wait till I got home the next day to find a place to have it done. I had no tattoos and had no idea how to go about this.

This incredible couple, Edgar and Bibi, who had some body art themselves, were from the area and were willing to take me to a place near to get it done right away!  They said they would bring us back to the United Center in plenty of time for the concert later. By this time it was about 5:00. I thought what the heck I have to do this. They did not want me to take a chance that it would fade and felt strongly we should find someone to do it right.

how I met Bono
My Bonograph

No, I am not crazy, just on an adventure of a lifetime

So off we went, now I know that you must think I was absolutely crazy to get in a car with strangers and I wouldn’t recommend this, but in all honestly I felt perfectly comfortable and after all they were fellow U2 fans, there that day with the same goal in mind-to meet the band!  I could not have met two nicer people, who took good care of Megan and I.

So after a couple of phone calls, we found a place, Native Soul Tattoos, that was open in the Pilsen neighborhood. This place was familiar to a friend of Bibi’s so all was good. We arrived and checked out the artists Rick’s work. After Bibi gave the okay, it was time to get my signature made permanent. I don’t know if I was high on adrenaline or what but I did not flinch or feel any pain at all!! 40 minutes and $82 dollars later I had a permanent record of this wonderful dream fulfilling day!! I will never be able to thank Bibi and Edgar enough for what they did that day!!! Edgar is now one of those friends that I see whenever I am in Chicago to see U2 and we stay in touch through social media.

how I met Bono
Just meeting Bono in Chicago

So with my arm wrapped in plastic wrap, Megan and I arrived back at United Center for that night’s show in plenty of time. We took our seats and enjoyed the concert! I did get some looks and I proudly told anyone that commented a brief version of the day including the three people outside the hotel as we were checking out the next day.

The U2 adventure continues

Now three years and three more U2 Chicago shows later, and an upcoming dream concert in Dublin in November, this day will go down as one of the highlights of my life. Since that day, I have been lucky enough to meet and get Bono’s autograph twice, met and got Adam’s signature twice and was able to get my picture taken with the Edge and get his signature this past May. Getting that picture with Edge was also an exciting day!!

I have been very lucky and blessed that I have been able to be up close and meet this band that I am so crazy over since that first concert in Madison, Wisconsin on September in 1992. I would never have been able to imagine that 23 years later I would proudly wear Bono’s signature permanently on my arm.

Are you a passionate fan? Have you been on an adventure like this one?


Lori is a midlife travel and lifestyle blogger on a mission to inspire women to conquer their fears and follow their dreams through travel. She loves to write about Paris, her home state of Wisconsin, her book addiction, and all the challenges and joys of midlife from her newly renovated vintage camper named Beatrice.

Oh The Places I Go…Travel, Books, Life
http://lorilovesparis.com/

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Plan your next adventure! A Trip to Portugal Should Be On Your Travel Radar https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/plan-your-next-adventure-a-trip-to-portugal-should-be-on-your-travel-radar/ https://www.adventuresofemptynesters.com/plan-your-next-adventure-a-trip-to-portugal-should-be-on-your-travel-radar/#comments Mon, 21 May 2018 14:58:30 +0000

Angela, my dear friend from college and avid traveler, has returned to the blog to share their luxurious adventure in Portugal. I didn’t know nearly enough about this incredible country, but now I know that a trip to Portugal must be at the top of my travel adventure list! How does one describe Portugal? Glorious. ...

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trip to Portugal

Angela, my dear friend from college and avid traveler, has returned to the blog to share their luxurious adventure in Portugal. I didn’t know nearly enough about this incredible country, but now I know that a trip to Portugal must be at the top of my travel adventure list!


How does one describe Portugal? Glorious. Mysterious. Land of ancient explorers. A must-go destination.

Portugal had been on our travel radar for some time. Between reading about it on travel sites, seeing Porto featured on my favorite fashion blog, and one of our daughters having visited Lisbon when she was studying in Madrid years ago, that was enough to whet our appetites.

Our trip to Portugal begins ~

My husband Jon and I decided to spend 18 days exploring this wonderful country. After weeks of research with an emphasis on booking Virtuoso properties, we finalized our itinerary.We began in Lisbon, drove around the country and ended up with a five-night stay on the island of Madeira, with one last night in Lisbon before flying home.

trip to Portugal

Lisbon, Portugal’s capital, is beautiful and bustling. Like Rome, it’s built on seven hills. One definitely gets a workout traversing the inclines and slopes. The sidewalks are paved with gorgeous mosaic designs, or Calcada, composed of irregular limestone pavers, and many of the streets are made of cobblestone so high heels are definitely out. Lisbon is safe (Portugal was named the 3rd safest country on CN Traveler’s most recent The 10 Safest Countries in the World list) and we found ourselves almost exclusively walking the city.

From our lovely hotel we enjoyed this view of Lisbon’s grandest square, Praca de Comércio.

Where to stay in Lisbon ~

We stayed at a lovely boutique hotel, Pousada de Lisboa, directly across the street from the Praca de Comércio.  Renovated in 2015, it is a chic Virtuoso property and a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World consortium.  Our room looked out over the iconic square with the Tagus River beyond.  The staff was incredibly accommodating. When we had a last-minute hankering to experience Fado, Lisbon’s soulful, blues-like music, our lovely concierge arranged for us to attend the final show that evening at Clube de Fado.

trip to Portugal
Exploring the magnificent gardens—and tunnels—of Quinta da Regaleira was so much fun.

On our first full day in Lisbon we actually left the city with our tour guide, Tomás, and headed a bit north. We visited Sintra, described by Lord Byron as “glorious Eden.”  It’s an absolutely gorgeous town on a hillside with beautiful yet decaying villas. Sintra’s microclimate affords lush vegetation everywhere. The highlight was visiting Pena Palace, a Disneyesque castle perched high atop a plateau. On our drive up to the palace Tomás dropped us at Quinta da Regaleira, a manor house that once belonged to a Brazilian mining mogul who was obsessed with Knights Templar.  We were mesmerized by the elaborate garden with a grotto-like maze of tunnels that led to an “initiation well.” Both of these stunning spots are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Our day also included a visit to Cascais, a now-hip seaside mecca once known as the summer home to Portuguese royalty and as a fishing village that attracted artists. We also made a quick stop to stand on the western-most point of Europe.

trip to Portugal
Peña Palace

trip to Portugal
Our day trip included a stop in the seaside mecca of Cascais

 

The Food Scene in Lisbon ~

The food scene in Portugal is robust and talented chefs are making their marks. In addition to enjoying a meal at our hotel’s excellent restaurant, RIB Beef & Wine, we had a remarkable dining experience at Bistro 100 Manieres where we were entertained by the talented mixologist at their intimate bar before and after dinner. Anticipating a dominance of Portuguese food, on the third night we chose to eat at one of Lisbon’s top sushi restaurants, the very chic Avenida Sushi Café, indulging in a delicious tasting menu. Our final night, before flying home, we enjoyed tapas-style dishes in the Alfama at Prado.  It was named one of Lisbon’s top ten restaurants for design lovers. I can see why; the space is gorgeous in its simplicity.  One must not visit Portugal without tasting the national sweet treat, pasteis de nata. These flaky tarts are filled with a custard of egg yolks, sugar and cream and are best enjoyed with a Portuguese coffee.

trip to Portugal
The Bairro Alto is a vast and beautiful neighborhood filled with shopping and eateries and beautiful sights.

 

Lisbon is characterized by its neighborhoods.  My favorites were the Baiiro Alto and the Alfama. On our final night in Portugal, we stayed at the boutique hotel Memmo Alfama with its panoramic views. I also enjoyed the Chiado district. More than once we ended up at the Hotel do Chiado’s rooftop bar to take in the stunning views at sunset.

Between the antique stores—one that featured original Portuguese tile murals—the shoes stores, the boutiques—especially the ones in the repurposed Embaixada gallery where we dropped in at Gin Lovers + LESS for the best gin and tonic I’ve ever tasted—and the myriad food stores, Lisbon is a shopper’s mecca.

More places to see ~

A few things we didn’t get to that I’m planning for our next visit: a visit to the Mercado de Ribeira (which had a renovation in 2014 masterminded by Time Out magazine); a ride on the iconic no. 28 eléctrico, a cable car much like the ones in San Francisco; a visit to Castelo de São Jorge, a 5th century fortress considered the cradle of the city; an afternoon at one of Lisbon’s many museums (the Museu de Artes Decorativas Portuguesas and MAAT—the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology stood out for me); a visit to Belém to see the Jerónimos Monastery and stop at Pasteis de Belém; taking in the view from the Santa Justa Elevator platform; and watching Lisbon’s main soccer club, Benfica, at their new stadium, Estádio da Luz. So much to do and see!

We drove to Porto after spending two nights in the country and then crawling up the west coast and spending one night in the fishing village of Nazaré, best known for its mammoth winter waves. Portugal’s infrastructure, including its highways, is impressive. We could learn a thing or two from this country. We never experienced traffic and with our handy Google Maps we managed to navigate the occasional round-abouts with relatively minimal squabbles.

On to Porto ~

trip to Portugal
The breathtaking view of Porto and the Douro River from The Yeatman are unmatched. We were constantly in awe.

 

Porto, Portugal’s second city, seems to have mastered the concept of “work hard, play hard.” The Douro River runs through the city from the northeast and one of Europe’s richest wine regions. The city is known for its port wines. We stayed on the south bank of the river at The Yeatman Hotel, an absolutely stunning, 83-room property with breathtaking views of the Ribiera district of Porto, the Dom Luis I bridge and the river below. The Vila Nova de Gaia side of the river where we stayed technically is a separate suburb but it’s just a short walk across the bridge to the busier part of town and there isn’t a hotel in Porto that compares. In fact, of all the amazing properties we stayed at on this trip, The Yeatman was our favorite. The Gaia’s main attraction is its port wine lodges and there are endless wine tours for oenophiles. We also discovered a quirky artists’ cooperative gallery, 3+ arte, where we purchased some unique souvenirs that the hotel staff happily arranged to have shipped home for us.

trip to Portugal
Walking European cities is one of our favorite activities. Walking Porto is really the best way to explore this magical city.

 

Like Lisbon, Porto is a city of hills and stairs but we found it to be very walkable. There was one rather rainy day when we invested in a hop-on-hop-off bus pass although we still walked a good deal. We also enjoyed one of the hour-long river boat cruises. We didn’t take advantage of the Funicular dos Guindais that transports riders up the steep hill from Ribeira to the Batalha district. Nor did we get a chance to ride the Teleférico de Gaia, a gondola (they call it a cable car) that transports riders to and from the port wine lodges and the upper deck of the bridge.

trip to Portugal
Don’t miss a boat ride along the Douro as you take in the banks of Porto and the Ribiera district.

 

My husband and I loved Porto even more than Lisbon. Maybe it was our amazing hotel with its indoor swimming pool that looked out at the Douro River and its Michelin two-star (as of 2017) Gastronomique Restaurant where we had an extraordinary tasting menu experience. Maybe it was the high energy and friendly attitude of the people we met. Maybe it was the beauty of the brightly painted, red-roofed structures that dot the banks of the river. Or maybe it was the cool sea air that blows in from the Atlantic. All I know is that Porto is enchanting.

trip to Portugal
The Yeatman’s Michelin two-star is an experience not to be missed. Gastronomique Restaurant is run by one of Portugal’s premiere chefs.

 

Each day we explored the historic city center. On a rainy afternoon we took a tour of the São João National Theater. It was interesting and Jon was especially appreciative of the details. We strolled and shopped the Rua de Santa Catarina. One day we stopped in at the Intercontinental Porto for a late lunch, the other hotel we had considered. It was nicely-appointed and centrally located but we were glad we had chosen The Yeatman.

trip to Portugal
The street art in Porto—and Lisbon—is extraordinary. We found ourselves going on a kind of street art scavenger hunt to capture these locations.
trip to Portugal
Porto train station with its beautiful Azulejo tiles
trip to portugal
The church structures are abundant and often are graced with the beautiful Azulejo tiles.

 

One of the highlights was the evening we drove to a tony beach enclave just out of town. It reminded me of Santa Monica and we had an amazing meal at a gem of a neighborhood restaurant called Cafeína. The manager made us feel like VIP’s as he engaged us while also greeting the locals.

Lisbon and Porto stole my heart. I’ve been to Spain three times and love it. But for me, Portugal now reigns supreme.

Stay tuned for more adventures from Angela and their trip to Portugal – Coming Soon

Angela’s most recent contribution here ~ Walking Through Japan: Along the Nakasendo Way


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trip to Portugal

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